The sun has only a short way to fall behind the Italian Alps, but full dark is a long time coming. These endless evenings draw the ill and elderly out to stroll the gentle switchback trails to the spa's high gardens. I watch them at dinner, folding warm rolls into their napkins, capping the curative mineral water. In the lift they are silent, formal, holding the bottles as stiffly as vials of mercury or urine samples. Here, the waters are sacred; they fall from the mountains like white linen, sing in the distance all night, and are precious. Bread serves another purpose: beyond the first gate, the hotel swans ply tended pools, living on bread alone. Waiting.
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